Whether you are a newbie or a seasoned cyclist, you need to know the different types of bicycle brakes that are available. These include rim, disc, and dual-pivot brakes.
Rim brakes
Disc brakes for bicycles have been around for many decades, but are only now starting to see widespread use on inexpensive bikes. The advantages of using disc brakes are obvious, but they also make changing wheels and replacing the brake pads more complicated. In addition, they are difficult to replace and can produce annoying noises.
Traditionally, rim brakes for bicycles have been installed in a position where the rider can see the state of the quick release mechanism. The problem with this approach is that it is difficult to determine whether the braking mechanism is in a closed or opened position. If it is not in a closed position, the braking force will be inconsistent. The user has to remember to return the operating section to a closed position. Alternatively, the brakes can be mounted on the chain stay.
A caliper-type rim brake is illustrated in the Japanese Examined Utility Model Application Publication 64-7119. The caliper is positioned above the rim and pinches the rim of the rear wheel. This is similar to the design of a U-brake. Its actuation is carried out by a handlebar lever that generates the braking pressure.
The caliper-type rim brake is designed to be attached to the coupling member 4. The coupling member is secured to the rearward end of hanger section 5 of the frame. It has a mounting section 16b that houses the head section 20a of the first pivot shaft 20. The first nut member 24 is screwed into the tip end of the first pivot shaft 20. The second nut member 25 is screwed onto the side of the head section 20a. It serves to pivotally support the second brake arm 18. The bracket 14 is fastened to the coupling member with the first nut member 24.
The caliper-type caliper consists of two curved arms that cross at a pivot above the wheel. Each curved arm has a cam follower to draw the arms apart. The arms then rotate inward on the brake pads. As they wear, the braking surface may lose centering. In addition, the rim may rub against the brake pads. This will eventually cause them to wear out.
A traditional cantilever-type rim brake is a two-arm mechanism that has a straddle cable between the two arms. The straddle cable is pulled upward by the operating lever to generate a braking force. The braking force is transmitted to the tyre through the fork and wheel components. The torque arms are attached to the fork and the fork must be positioned in an appropriate way.
A rod-actuated brake is also called a rod brake. It uses a series of rods to transmit the braking force to the hand lever. It is particularly suitable for Westwood rim profiles. The shape of the rods is similar to a stirrup, and is typically called a stirrup brake.
Disc brakes
Disc brakes for bicycles offer several advantages over their V-brake counterparts. In addition to the usual speed boost, they are also simple to install and configure. In addition, they are far less likely to clog or damage tire rims. However, they do come with their own set of disadvantages. In particular, they are heavier and may require a specialized mounting system.
There are numerous disc brakes on the market, many of which are cable-actuated. Some manufacturers even produce both disc and non-disc versions of their braking systems. These products are available for virtually any type of bike. There are even mountain bikes that come with disc brakes. Aside from being a bit bulky, these brakes can interfere with pannier racks.
A disc brake rotor is a spinning disc that is attached to the hub. The caliper grasps the spinning disc, and a straddle cable connects the two arms. The inner cable is bolted to a small pulley. The caliper is a complex design, requiring a lot of seals and machining.
It is possible to mount disc brakes on most bicycles, but there are some limitations. It is important to use a disc brake that is compatible with your fork’s dropouts. In addition, a braking reaction force ejects the wheel from the dropout, and a quick release mechanism may be required. This is because the caliper needs to be aligned with the dropouts. If the two are not aligned, the rotor may warp, which can be noisy. In addition, the brake may be damaged if it is overheated. This can be especially true on tandem bikes.
It is also important to select the right size of rotor for your braking application. For example, a 140 mm rotor is a good choice for a front brake. This is because this size is big enough to provide a braking force. But not so big that it will damage your rim. If you need a larger rotor, a 165 mm one will do the trick.
If you are a road cyclist, then you are probably against disc brakes. The good news is that you can still use a rim brake, but you will have to modify your bike. Discs are also heavier than rims, so you will have to put a bit of extra effort into your braking. You might want to use a smaller diameter rim if you have wide tyres.
If you are in the market for a new bicycle, then you may be wondering which braking system is the best for you. The best way to decide is to think about your priorities. Some people consider weight a major problem, but the power of a braking mechanism is much more important. If you are in a peloton, you don’t want to be caught in a braking emergency.
Dual-pivot brakes
Unlike centre-pull brakes, which have a single pivot, dual-pivot bicycle brakes have two separate pivots, one above the rim and one below the rim. This allows for toe adjustments and for adjusting the pad edge on the rim. The dual-pivot design provides better modulation and overall stopping power.
The original design of the disc brake dates back to the 1930s. The early versions were used on all types of road bikes. However, they declined in popularity when disc brakes became more available. As discs became cheaper, more people switched to cantilever or direct-mount caliper brakes. This was not the case for centre-pull brakes, which were the norm until the 1960s. Compared to a single-pivot design, these brakes tracked out-of-alignment rims more accurately and were easier to center.
The basic design of disc brakes is simple. The rotor is connected to the wheel hub with six bolts. In some designs, the rotor is held in place by a Shimano Centerlock lockring, which is threaded on the inside face of the rotor and tightened with a cassette lockring tool.
There are also hybrid designs that allow the brake to use a hydraulic system instead of cable. These designs may be more heavy than a direct-mount caliper, but offer more leverage. The caliper can be adjusted by re-securing the locknut. Typically, the binds arm needs to be tested for free movement and adjusted if needed.
Regardless of which type you choose, you should ensure that your brakes are set at the proper height. Ideally, you should position the pads high on the rim braking surface. This will reduce the risk of rubbing on the rim. If your brakes are set too loose, they will not have sufficient stopping power. You will be able to hear a squeal as the brake is applied, but the pads will not be centered properly.
A common problem with the caliper arms is excessive play. You can correct this by re-secureing the locknut or by moving the mounting nut. Depending on the brand of the brake, some models require you to remove the brake body and move it to the opposite side. While the brakes are moved, you can adjust the toe angle to decrease the amount of squeal.
When you are adjusting the pad, you should leave a gap between the pad and the rim. This will give you better pad life. Usually, you will have to set the brakes so that the pads are slightly lower on the rim braking surface. If the pads are set too high, they will not be able to clear the rim. You can also add a drop bolt to lengthen the brakes. This is especially useful for tandem riding. The added length will allow you to compress the rim more easily.
In the case of a dual-pivot, the left pad acts as a side pull and the right pad acts as a centre pull. As the pads approach the rim, the left pad swings downward and the right pad moves upward. In some models, the brakes have a centering screw, but in most cases, the arms are adjustable separately. The brakes are also held in place by a yoke that separates the pivot points.
